15 June 2026

 And so, in reverse order, we drove from Bourgogne back towards Champagne today 

En route to Aÿ-Champagne, we were in the Aube region - here driving through the vineyards surrounding Essoyes - petite cité de caractère which was the birthplace and home of Renoir

where we stopped for an assiette of good serrano ham at a café opposite the church 

Just a few kilometres further on we reached the neighbouring village of Loches-sur-Ource to stop in at the Richardot estate. A friendly, elegant lady led us through the cellars to pick out some cases of their champagne -

And then it was on to Aÿ-Champagne, through countless villages crammed with champagne producers -

and endless stretches of champagne vineyards. Incredible to know that altogether around 300 million bottles a year are produced here.

We stayed in the lovely B&B Maison à Deux Mains of Ryan and Agnes, who'd booked us a table down the road in the garden of the Rotisserie & Cave Henri IV.

I learned that Henri IV is widely acknowledged to have been a good egg and beneficial for France. Though at this restaurant he is mostly celebrated for his love of women and champagne.

We had an excellent dinner. Here a good foie gras - 

and tataki of beef, with the shapely legs of le bon roi Henri sticking out below -

our Saint Amour beaujolais - 

and plat of poitrine de cochon

before walking back through the town to our very comfortable room at Deux Mains.